西海橋 (Saikai Bridge)

5 August 2019

I waved to my dad as he drove away, leaving me in a nearly empty parking lot. I was alone but for a group of Japanese men who smoked while watching me curiously.

If there was one thing I learned from traveling to Japan, it was that I reveled the moments of exploring alone. There is an excitement to solely depending on myself.

This was my third visit to Saikai Bridge and would not be my last. I smiled shyly at the men as I walked past them for a drink from the nearby vending machine.

Saikai Bashi, pronounced “Sigh-kigh Bah-shee,” is a delicate bridge that arches over the whirlpools of the Harioseto Strait. The turbulent water that writhes beneath is caused by the tides coming in and out of Omura Bay. Only two narrow straits connect the bay to the much larger East China Sea; thus, all the water that the tides force through the gap below Saikai Bridge causes dangerous waters.

Hundreds upon hundreds of gallons per minute are sucked down at the boundary lines where the opposing currents touch, dragging even medium sized boats towards their centers. Beneath the surface, vortices spin with tornado-like ferocity. Against such raw power, a person would not survive.

However, as if no danger were even present, the area is a pleasant place for a stroll. A second bridge called Shin-Saikai runs adjacent to Saikai, and I walked towards that one first. Below Shin-Saikai is a foot bridge, which shook each time a truck passed over me. In the center is a lookout space. On one side, is a view of Saikai Bridge. On the other, three towers can be seen topping a hill in the distance.

The three towers are wireless telegraph stations dating from World War II. Historians, Japanese military officials, and locals alike believe these towers to be the last carriers of the signal to initiate the attack on Pearl Harbor. Of course, when the Japanese surrendered, the government ordered all their documents to burned. That truth, then, may never be learned.

When I stopped looking out and instead looked down, though, I found my favorite part. The bottom of the foot bridge features several glass circles cut out of the floor and looking straight down into the churning waters below. I hate heights, and my hands tingled every time.

The other side of the bridge from where my dad dropped me off at hosts a fish market. Looking at the exotic fish is a highlight of visiting Saikai, and there are food and ice cream vendors to cater to passersby as well.

I had already seen the fish market twice, so I only stopped to get another drink from a vending machine. The Japanese vending machines are one of the best things about visiting Japan because they provide such a wide variety of Japanese drinks and are pervasive throughout even small cities. Naturally, and the fish market has a great supply. I picked a Pocari Sweat – a sports electrolyte drink – before braving the steps I had climbed last time I visited.

“One, two, three, four…” I counted the steps as I climbed.

“78, 79, 80…” Still I counted.

My legs burned, but not nearly as badly as they would have two months prior. I was in the best shape I had been in since I started classes at the Mississippi University for Women in 2017.

The view at the top was stunning. Both bridges were visible, and beyond them lay a view of Omura Bay. I was so distracted taking pictures that I forgot if the last step I counted was 151 or 152. Regardless, it was a lot of steps. Enough to not want to count them again. A parking lot by the park at the top indicated that the steps were not necessary to enjoy the view.

A small lookout tower was perched on the hill, and I only counted 19 steps to the top. However, it was not the only side excursion around the bridge. There are several paths and trails and a section of the Kyushu Nature Trail (a group of trails around Kyushu). Every time I went, I would discover something new.

I recommend taking the path to the bottom of the bridge. There is an excitement that comes with listening to the gurgling and slurping of the current on a closer level. I found myself constantly checking to be sure the water was not suddenly raising beside me. There looked like there was a place to get a boat ride and a bite to eat, but it was closed while I was there.

Across the water from the fish market and next to Saikai Bridge are a few benches where I sat and watched the sun set at the end of the day.

Saikai Bridge is a great place for a quick stop, but if you like nature and exploring there’s plenty of trails to explore and beautiful views. The fish market provides a great place to eat and find out what the fish eaten in restaurants look like.