日光 (Nikko)

12 July 2019

I was in love with Japan from the moment I stepped out of the airport on day one, but it was the train ride to Nikko that made me wish I could live out my days there. Nikko is a two-hour hop by train from Tokyo, but the journey is not quite long enough to fully enjoy the views of rural Japan from the windows.

My boyfriend and I arrived in Nikko with only a handful of hours before all the buses and main attractions closed, and several of the buildings were not visible due to restoration. However, my time there could only be described as delightful. The misty mountain air drifts through the Japanese cedars quite differently than the smog through the buildings in Tokyo. Although the population of Nikko is larger than any city I have lived in, the surrounding mountains seems to hide the city away from the rest of the world. I can only imagine how much more enjoyable it would have been with more time to see every temple, shrine, and waterfall.

Our first stop from the train station was lunch at a café we happened to pass called Tora Nikko. We were surprised to discover the menus included hand drawn images of the food and drinks they served, which complemented the chalk marker drawings of local attractions on the windows.

“Who drew these?” I asked our waiter (who spoke a bit of English) as I pointed at the menu’s open page.

I expected him to point at a young woman who had recently walked in and begun working behind the bar, or at least himself, but he smiled and gestured to an older man that I can only assume was the owner.

My eyes widened. This was yet another reminder of the artistic nature and attention to detail that is prevalent in Japan. Where I am from, in the Deep South of the United States, these characteristics are often seen as feminine or characteristics of young people.

I thought the art would end at the drawings, but once they brought out our drinks, I knew I was mistaken. The sandwiches we had ordered were the most vibrant sandwiches I have ever seen, with thick layers of colorful vegetables that complemented the flavors of the meats we had chosen. They were even served on slab of slate that – had we been in the States – I would have called hipster.

After finishing our meal, we caught a bus to see as many shrines and temples as possible before they closed. At the time, Rinnō-ji Temple was being restored, so we could only marvel at the ornate roofs. However, a dragon fountain outside still captured our interest.

Toshogu Shrine was a brief stroll away. By the time we reached the shrine, dusk was beginning to creep into the woods. The light mist that had previously filled the air began to thicken; in contrast, the crowds of tourists began to dissipate, and were soon gone altogether. The shrine closed before we could see much of what it had to offer, but the paths through the woods were beautiful enough to make up for the beauty missed.

We meandered to Shinkyo Bridge, gazing at paths and gardens along the way. At the base of the hill, the red of the bridge popped against the blue evening shadows as fog filled the mountains. My boyfriend and I had already missed the last bus, and the train station was a long way away. However, good company made the walk more pleasure than pain, and, as with any city, we enjoyed the excitement of wondering what treasure could be discovered along the way.

Nikko is a city of many attractions and is foundational to both Shinto and Buddhist mountain worship. However, it is the landscape that truly makes it a stunning place. The two-hour train ride is a refreshing trip from the busy life of Tokyo, and I would recommend spending a few days there to fully enjoy all Nikko has to offer.